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Everest North Face vs. South Face: Which Route is Right for You?
Mount Everest, standing at 8,848.86 meters (29,031.7 feet), is the pinnacle of mountaineering ambition. Every year, hundreds of climbers from around the globe attempt to reach its summit, drawn by adventure, prestige, and the personal challenge of conquering the “Roof of the World.” However, one of the most crucial decisions for any climber is choosing the route, the North Face or the South Face of Everest. Each route offers a unique blend of challenges, scenic beauty, logistical considerations, and historical significance.
This guide provides a comprehensive comparison of the North Face and South Face of Mount Everest, covering everything from technical difficulty and weather patterns to logistics, safety considerations, and the experiences each route offers. By the end, you’ll have a clear understanding of which path may be right for your Everest expedition.
Key Takeaways
- North Face (Tibet) is more technical, colder, windier, and less crowded; South Face (Nepal) is the classic route with more support and higher traffic.
- Base Camps: North Base Camp at 5,150 m; South Base Camp at 5,364 m, with gradual trekking acclimatization.
- Climbing Seasons: Both faces are best climbed pre-monsoon (April–May) or post-monsoon (Sept–Oct).
- Technical Challenges: The North Face has steep ridges and the Second Step; the South Face features the Khumbu Icefall and crevasses.
- Logistics & Permits: North Face requires Chinese permits and more self-sufficiency; South Face offers easier permits and extensive Sherpa support.
- Preparation & Gear: North Face demands technical climbing skills and self-reliance; South Face emphasizes guided support and icefall safety gear.
- Safety: Both routes are risky. The North Face has extreme weather; the South Face has icefall and crowd hazards.
- Choosing the Right Route: North Face for experienced climbers seeking challenge; South Face for first-timers or those preferring support and the classic Everest experience. Understanding how hard it is to climb Mount Everest helps climbers choose the right path.
Overview: The North Face of Mount Everest
The Everest North Face is located on the Tibetan side of the mountain and is generally considered less crowded but more technically challenging than the South Face. It appeals to experienced mountaineers who want a quieter climb, more remote scenery, and the opportunity to tackle difficult technical sections.
Location & Access Points
The North Face begins from the Tibetan Plateau, with the primary access point being the Rongbuk Monastery, near the North Base Camp. Climbers typically travel via Lhasa, the capital of Tibet, and then by road to the base camp. This route requires Chinese government permits, which are strictly regulated. Unlike Nepal, where climbers can arrange trips relatively independently, the North Face involves official Tibetan bureaucracy, including limited expedition sizes and approved guiding companies.
Base Camp Altitude
The North Base Camp sits at 5,150 meters (16,900 feet). While slightly lower than the South Base Camp in terms of logistical approach, it still presents high-altitude challenges from the start. Acclimatization is critical here, as climbers move quickly into extreme altitudes with less pre-trek acclimatization compared to Nepal’s trekking approach.
Typical Climbing Season
The prime climbing seasons for the North Face are:
- Pre-monsoon (April–May): Clear skies and slightly warmer temperatures.
- Post-monsoon (September–October): Colder conditions but less crowded.
The North Face is windier than the South Face, with frequent gusts that can exceed 100 km/h (62 mph), making summit attempts more dangerous. Temperatures also drop significantly at night, often reaching -30°C (-22°F) near the summit.
Overview: The South Face of Mount Everest
The Everest South Face in Nepal is the most popular route and is considered the classic path to the summit. It has become iconic not only because of its historical ascents but also due to its accessibility and supporting infrastructure.
Location & Access Points
The South Face begins with the trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) in the Khumbu Valley, Nepal. This trek is spectacular, passing through Sherpa villages, rhododendron forests, and dramatic Himalayan landscapes. Key access points include Lukla Airport, which is the primary gateway, and the villages of Namche Bazaar and Dingboche for acclimatization.
Base Camp Altitude
The South Base Camp is located at 5,364 meters (17,598 feet). Climbers often spend several days trekking and acclimatizing before beginning the ascent, which reduces the risk of altitude sickness compared to the North Face approach.
Typical Climbing Season
The optimal seasons for the South Face are the same as the North Face:
- Pre-monsoon (April–May): Best weather conditions for summit attempts.
- Post-monsoon (September–October): Fewer climbers, cooler temperatures.
The South Face is slightly more protected from wind, but climbers face significant hazards like the Khumbu Icefall, which is prone to avalanches and serac collapses.
Everest North Face vs South Face
Feature
North Face (Tibet)
South Face (Nepal)
Base Camp Altitude
5,150 m
5,364 m
Access
Tibetan Plateau, Rongbuk Monastery
Khumbu Valley Trek, Nepal
Climbing Season
April–May, Sept–Oct
April–May, Sept–Oct
Technical Difficulty
High, steep, cold, windy, long route
Moderate–High; icefall hazards, crevasses, steep slopes
Crowding
Minimal; fewer climbers, more solitude
High, especially during peak season
Permit Costs
~$11,000–$12,000
~$11,000
Support & Logistics
Limited; fewer guides, minimal infrastructure
Extensive; Sherpa support, established camps, medical facilities
Risks
Extreme cold, strong winds, and technical rock climbs
Khumbu Icefall, avalanches, crevasse danger, crowd delays
Scenic Experience
Remote Tibetan plateau, dramatic northern ridges
Himalayan glaciers, icefalls, Sherpa villages, iconic summit views
Moderate snowfall
Clear skies post‑monsoon
October
Historical Significance
First successful North Face summit by the 1960s Chinese expeditions
First confirmed summit by Hillary & Norgay in 1953; heavily trafficked
This table provides a quick, side-by-side overview for climbers trying to decide between the two routes, highlighting not only altitude and logistics but also technical challenges and historical context.
Route Difficulty & Technical Challenges: South vs North Face of Mount Everest
When it comes to climbing Everest, the technical difficulty varies greatly between the North and South Faces, and understanding these differences is essential for planning your expedition.
North Face
The North Face of Mount Everest is widely regarded as more technically demanding, particularly due to its cold, wind-exposed terrain and steep rock sections. Key challenges include:
Steeper, Windier, Colder Terrain
- The northern approach faces extreme wind conditions that can exceed 100 km/h (62 mph) near the summit, making balance and progress difficult.
- Temperatures on the North Face can drop below -30°C (-22°F), even during climbing season, increasing the risk of frostbite and hypothermia.
- Climbers must negotiate long, exposed ridges where a single misstep can be catastrophic.
More Technical Sections (e.g., Second Step)
- The Second Step, a vertical rock face at 8,610 meters, is considered one of the most technical obstacles on the mountain.
- Fixed ladders help climbers, but they still require advanced rock climbing skills, endurance, and nerves of steel at extreme altitude.
- Other technical sections include steep snow and ice slopes that demand proficiency in using crampons, ice axes, and rope techniques.
Longer Route to the Summit
- Although the North Base Camp starts slightly lower than the South Base Camp, the route to the summit is longer and more exposed, taking more days to complete.
- Extended exposure at extreme altitude increases the risk of altitude sickness, exhaustion, and frostbite.
Limited Support Infrastructure
- Unlike Nepal, the North Face has fewer fixed camps, minimal Sherpa support, and limited rescue options, which amplifies the technical difficulty.
South Face
The South Face of Mount Everest is challenging in different ways, with more logistical hazards and natural obstacles than extreme technical rock climbs. Key challenges include:
Khumbu Icefall Danger
- The icefall is a constantly shifting glacier riddled with deep crevasses, unstable ice blocks, and potential avalanches.
- Climbers must navigate carefully, often using ladders and ropes over unstable sections, making timing and luck critical for survival.
Steep Sections & Crevasses
- Above the icefall, climbers face steep snow slopes, rock bands, and treacherous crevasses.
- Although technically easier than the Second Step, these sections demand stamina, careful footwork, and high-altitude experience.
Heavier Crowding in Peak Season
- The South Face is the most popular route, meaning climbers frequently encounter traffic jams above 8,000 meters, where oxygen is scarce.
- Delays in the death zone increase risk of frostbite, altitude sickness, and exhaustion.
Greater Logistical Support
- Nepal offers established base camps, multiple high camps, Sherpa support, and pre-positioned oxygen, which reduces technical difficulty but does not eliminate natural hazards.
Logistics & Permits: South vs North Face of Mount Everest
Planning an Everest expedition is not just about climbing skill—it requires careful consideration of permits, regulations, logistics, and support infrastructure. These factors differ significantly between the North Face (Tibet) and the South Face (Nepal).
North Face (Tibet)
- Permit Costs and Regulations
- Climbing the North Face of Mount Everest requires permits issued by the Chinese government. The cost ranges from $11,000–$12,000 per climber, depending on the expedition package and support services.
- Permits are strictly regulated. Only government-approved companies can lead expeditions, and there are limits on expedition size.
- In addition to the climbing permit, climbers need a Tibet travel permit, a mountain pass permit, and sometimes a liaison officer, adding to logistical planning.
- Accessibility
- Access to the North Base Camp is via Lhasa, followed by several days of road travel across the Tibetan plateau.
- Roads are rough, and travel may be delayed due to weather or bureaucratic requirements.
- Supplies, medical support, and rescue services are more limited than on the Nepalese side, which makes self-sufficiency and careful planning essential.
- Support Infrastructure
- North Face expeditions are generally smaller and more self-reliant.
- Camps are basic, oxygen is carried in limited amounts, and Sherpa support is minimal compared to Nepal.
- Climbers must be prepared to carry heavier loads and rely on personal technical skills, especially on sections like the Second Step.
South Face (Nepal)
- Permit Requirements
- Nepalese permits cost approximately $11,000 per climber, which includes the Sagarmatha National Park entry fee and climbing permits.
- Permits are relatively easy to obtain through Nepalese expedition companies, which handle logistics and approvals.
- The approach trek to South Base Camp allows climbers to check the best time to climb Mount Everest while acclimatizing gradually.
- Trekking Support Services
The South Face is famous for its robust support infrastructure, including:
- Experienced Sherpa guides and porters.
- Pre-established camps with tents, communication systems, and medical facilities.
- Availability of supplemental oxygen and high-altitude food supplies.
The approach trek to South Base Camp (via Lukla and the Khumbu Valley) allows climbers to acclimatize gradually, reducing altitude-related risks.
Preparation & Equipment: South vs North Face of Mount Everest
Successfully summiting Everest requires meticulous preparation, specialized gear, and careful acclimatization. The North and South Faces differ in terms of environmental conditions, technical demands, and logistical support, which affects gear selection, training strategies, and expedition planning.
Gear Differences Due to Route Characteristics
North Face (Tibet):
- Technical Climbing Gear: The North Face has steep ridges and rock sections such as the Second Step, requiring climbers to carry ice axes, crampons, harnesses, and fixed-rope equipment.
- Cold Weather Protection: Temperatures on the North Face can drop below -30°C (-22°F), with strong wind gusts. Climbers need high-insulation down suits, windproof outer layers, and extreme cold gloves and boots.
- Self-Sufficiency Equipment: Due to limited Sherpa support, climbers often carry their own food, tents, and oxygen bottles, and must be prepared for long periods without external assistance.
South Face (Nepal):
- Icefall Safety Gear: The Khumbu Icefall requires ladders, ropes, harnesses, and helmets to safely navigate crevasses and shifting ice.
- High-Altitude Gear: Climbers need supplemental oxygen, insulated clothing, and crampons for icy slopes above 8,000 meters.
- Expedition Support Gear: Base camps and higher camps are well-established, allowing climbers to rely on pre-set tents, cooking facilities, and Sherpa support, reducing the weight of carried gear.
Key Difference: The North Face requires more technical climbing and self-sufficiency, while the South Face emphasizes icefall navigation and logistical support.
Training and Acclimatization Strategies
Proper training and acclimatization are critical for both routes to reduce the risk of altitude sickness, exhaustion, and frostbite.
North Face (Tibet):
- High-Altitude Conditioning: Climbers must train at altitudes above 5,000 meters whenever possible to prepare for prolonged exposure.
- Technical Skills Training: Rock climbing, ice climbing, and rope work are essential, especially for the Second Step.
- Extended Acclimatization: Fewer trekking days before base camp mean climbers must acclimatize quickly at North Base Camp using rotational climbs to nearby peaks or ridges.
South Face (Nepal):
- Gradual Trekking Acclimatization: The trek to South Base Camp allows climbers to acclimatize gradually, walking from Lukla to Namche Bazaar and higher villages over 7–10 days.
- High-Altitude Practice Climbs: Climbers often ascend smaller peaks such as Island Peak or Lobuche to further prepare for mountain climbing, gaining practical experience on steep snow slopes and ice sections before attempting Everest.
- Physical Conditioning: Cardiovascular fitness, leg strength, and endurance are critical for navigating the Khumbu Icefall and the death zone.
Key Difference: North Face climbers require more technical high-altitude training, while South Face climbers benefit from gradual acclimatization treks and practical experience on icefalls and steep snow slopes.
Recommended Expedition Support
Support and guidance can significantly affect safety, comfort, and success rates.
North Face (Tibet):
- Limited Sherpa Support: Fewer local guides are available, and climbers must be prepared for self-reliance, particularly on the technical sections.
- Fixed Rope Assistance: Chinese authorities provide some fixed ropes, especially on the Second Step, but climbers need to be proficient in using them independently.
- Medical & Rescue Planning: Emergency evacuation is challenging due to remote location and limited infrastructure, requiring climbers to carry their own high-altitude medicine and oxygen.
South Face (Nepal):
- Experienced Sherpa Guides: Sherpa teams handle load carrying, route fixing, and safety management in the Khumbu Icefall.
- Established Camps & Support: Climbers benefit from pre-established high camps, communication systems, and medical facilities.
- Commercial Expedition Packages: Many climbers use professional expedition companies that provide oxygen, tents, food, and logistical coordination, increasing chances of a successful summit.
Key Difference: North Face expeditions demand high self-reliance and technical skill, whereas South Face expeditions offer comprehensive support, making the climb more manageable for less technically experienced climbers.
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North Face or South Face: Picking the Right Challenge for You
Choosing between Everest’s North Face and South Face depends on your experience, risk tolerance, and goals.
- North Face (Tibet): Best for experienced climbers seeking technical challenges, remote landscapes, and fewer crowds. Requires advanced climbing skills and self-sufficiency.
- South Face (Nepal): Ideal for first-time or moderately experienced climbers who want the classic route, guided support, and gradual acclimatization. More crowded but better supported.
Bottom Line: The right route matches your skills, comfort with risk, and personal climbing goals; both sides offer the ultimate Everest adventure in their own way.
Conclusion
Choosing the North Face or South Face of Everest depends on your experience, goals, and risk tolerance. The North Face Mt Everest is technically harder, colder, and less crowded, ideal for experienced climbers seeking a challenge. The South Face of Everest offers the classic route, guided support, and gradual acclimatization, making it suitable for first-time climbers. Both routes carry risks like altitude sickness, avalanches, and extreme weather, so proper preparation and training are essential. At BeThere, we provide guidance, resources, and support to help you plan a safe and memorable Everest expedition. If you have any questions or need personalized advice, you can always contact us.
Table of Content
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Is the north or south side of Everest harder?
The North Face (Tibet) is generally considered more technically challenging due to steep rock climbs like the Second Step, extreme wind exposure, and colder temperatures, requiring advanced climbing skills and experience at high altitudes. The South Face (Nepal), while less technically demanding, poses serious hazards such as the Khumbu Icefall, crevasses, and crowding, which can make summit attempts risky, particularly during peak climbing season.
2. What is the difference between the north and south base camps on Everest?
- North Base Camp (Tibet): Located at 5,150 meters (16,900 feet), it is more remote and less developed. Infrastructure is minimal, and climbers often need to be self-sufficient with tents, food, and oxygen. Access requires travel through Lhasa and permits from the Chinese government.
- South Base Camp (Nepal): Situated at 5,364 meters (17,598 feet), it is accessible via a trekking route through the Khumbu Valley. The South Base Camp has better support, including established camps, Sherpa guides, communication systems, and medical facilities, making it safer for first-time climbers.
3. Has anyone climbed the south face of Everest?
Yes, the South Face is the most frequently climbed route on Everest. It was famously used by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay during the first confirmed summit in 1953. Since then, thousands of climbers have followed this path, benefiting from established camps, Sherpa support, and trekking-based acclimatization.
4. Which side is best to climb Mount Everest?
The “best” side depends on your experience and objectives. The South Face is ideal for first-time climbers or those seeking guided expeditions, infrastructure, and gradual acclimatization. The North Face is suited for experienced mountaineers who want technical challenges, solitude, and remote scenery. Both routes are dangerous, so preparation and fitness are crucial.
5.Which side of Everest is safer?
Neither side is completely safe. The South Face has higher traffic and icefall hazards, particularly in the Khumbu Icefall, which can result in accidents and delays. The North Face is technically harder and exposed to extreme weather, wind, and rockfall, but has fewer climbers. Safety depends largely on experience, preparation, timing, and route conditions.
6.What is the hardest face of Everest to climb?
The North Face is generally regarded as the hardest due to steep ridges, the technical Second Step climb, strong winds, and extremely low temperatures. While the South Face is more crowded and has icefall dangers, it is less technically demanding than the North Face.
7. What is the 2 pm rule on Everest?
The 2 pm rule is a safety guideline stating climbers should reach the summit by 2 pm. This ensures there is enough daylight to descend safely and reduces the risk of being caught in afternoon storms, high winds, or low visibility in the death zone. Missing this window can be extremely dangerous.
8. What is the scariest part of climbing Everest?
- South Face: The Khumbu Icefall is considered the scariest section due to constantly shifting ice, deep crevasses, and the risk of ice collapse or avalanches.
- North Face: The Second Step and exposed ridges near the summit are extremely intimidating, with climbers facing steep vertical climbs at extreme altitude, where even minor mistakes can be fatal.
9.Why do they climb Everest at night?
Climbers often begin summit attempts before dawn to take advantage of calmer wind conditions, firmer snow, and lower avalanche risk. Pre-dawn climbs also maximize the use of supplemental oxygen in the death zone and allow climbers to reach high points before afternoon storms or high winds. Night climbing reduces exposure to extreme hazards and increases the chances of a successful summit.
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